A few more weeks have passed by and work has been moving along. I had the great opportunity to share a traditional Thanksgiving with several Beninese at a friend's post. It was really great to celebrate perhaps the second most fundamental American holiday with Host Country Nationals (HCNs). We had to stuff a few chickens because turkey was cost prohibitive, but they were delicious. After dinner we played music and danced.
At school things have been moving along. We had our first series of exams this last week and so far my kids seem to be getting the lessons (the students that can read of course). I am anxiously waiting the funds for tooth paste. When I receive them I will make a trip to the capital. I have made a flier and will go around to all of the 6e level classrooms and make the announcement just before winter break.
I am also looking forward to getting my hands on some art supplies a family friend collected from the school where she teaches. People at home have been so helpful in realizing my visions for my time here. My service wouldn't be the same without their support.
Moringa is slowly coming along. This month we are taking to the dirt roads and building a network of health centers and sales women in 5 villages who we will train about the product and its benefits. We are also hoping to connect with walking pharmacies, women who roam around towns and villages with baskets of pills and medications. These women tend to be really well informed about their product and arrive at ill people's house extremely poignantly. If we can build a good sales team capable of helping us to create a informed client base, it will greatly improve our chances of success. Next month we are looking to start our marketing campaign at local health centers during their baby weighing and vaccination days.
The only sad news is the death of my iBook. I mourned for a solid 48 hours, but I have a friend taking it home to get it fixed or rescue the hard drive. Hopefully it should arrive in 5 weeks or so along with the art supplies mentioned above. Having a laptop has been so great for my work (and sanity), but I will make due if the iBook is beyond repair.
Sunday, December 7, 2008
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Minty Victory is Mine!
I want to take a chance to thank my Mother Colleen, her husband Larry, and my Uncle John! They are helping me to realize one of my PC visions. They have come together to fund my Toothbrushing Club! Soon I will have an army of little toothbrushing maniacs all foamy-mouthed and cavity-free every morning. I'm sure there will be many photos and even videos! I will post updates you can be sure.
Support your Volunteers
Several months ago there was a lot of talk about cuts in Peace Corps funding in American news media. You may have seen something in your local paper or on the television. These budget cut backs are currently being implemented all over the world. The African Region has decided to cut volunteer numbers rather than the support staff. While it in unfortunate that ten less communities in Benin will receive a volunteer, I am glad that this approach was taken. Unfortunately, we are still experiencing some financial difficulties here and they could become worse over the next few years.
I remain hopeful that this could change in the coming years. Both McCain and Obama both mentioned increasing the Peace Corps budget while on the campaign trail, so it would seem bipartisan support for PC is a no-brainer. I would also support stategic and structural changes, but I'm not going to lay out my 7 point plan here. I will say that I would increase the readjustment allowance for RPCVs (now it is at 6k USD, not enough to "start over" in a major American city).
I am posting to take the opportunity to pass along this link I came across that guide people through the process of contacting your representative to ask them to support the PC program. Please pass the word along, we are doing our best out here, and it would be a shame if cutbacks became too extensive and whole programs were lost.
I remain hopeful that this could change in the coming years. Both McCain and Obama both mentioned increasing the Peace Corps budget while on the campaign trail, so it would seem bipartisan support for PC is a no-brainer. I would also support stategic and structural changes, but I'm not going to lay out my 7 point plan here. I will say that I would increase the readjustment allowance for RPCVs (now it is at 6k USD, not enough to "start over" in a major American city).
I am posting to take the opportunity to pass along this link I came across that guide people through the process of contacting your representative to ask them to support the PC program. Please pass the word along, we are doing our best out here, and it would be a shame if cutbacks became too extensive and whole programs were lost.
Moringa Madness
We've hit a couple more hurdles, but are still moving forward. We ran into a snag when we were asked for a copy of the title for the land my NGO partner, SADEC is donating to the project. This is a problem when, like most of the developing world, rural property titles don't exist. There is no way to prove legally who owns what; this can be a problem even in urban areas. We managed to negotiate a solution whereby the king of my village and the Chef d'Arrondissment will sign a typed up document verifying the ownership of the property.
Due to setbacks we have reworked our schedule and modified our plan quite a bit. Though I think that our new solutions will actually put us in a stronger position at the end of the day. Asside from that we have worked together to solve the problems which has improved the problem solving abilities of our team. This is something that will make it easier when it is time to walk away next September.
Come January we should be ready to roll out our marketing campaign/ informative workshops at the local health centers and open our product into the marketplace. Before this can happen there is still much to do: we have to contact our local sales reps (Marché Mamas) and train them. We also need to collect preliminary data from the health centers we will be working with so we can acurately analyze the impact of our work.
Due to setbacks we have reworked our schedule and modified our plan quite a bit. Though I think that our new solutions will actually put us in a stronger position at the end of the day. Asside from that we have worked together to solve the problems which has improved the problem solving abilities of our team. This is something that will make it easier when it is time to walk away next September.
Come January we should be ready to roll out our marketing campaign/ informative workshops at the local health centers and open our product into the marketplace. Before this can happen there is still much to do: we have to contact our local sales reps (Marché Mamas) and train them. We also need to collect preliminary data from the health centers we will be working with so we can acurately analyze the impact of our work.
Monday, November 3, 2008
Little by Little
School has been back in for a couple of weeks and things are running about as smoothly as can be expected (which is to say not at all). No matter, I've been teaching my lessons and doing my best to get the students back into the school mentality. So far so good.
With my grant project I hit a pretty major snag. I'm happy to say my partners and I sat down and came up with a work-around. Having surmounted a major challenge makes me confident
our team can really make this thing work.
Other than that, I've been up in Parakou (a northern city) for a couple of days now. We had our regional Volunteer meeting. We also used the time to kill, butcher, and grill a sheep. It was delicious and a lot of fun.
Elections are coming up soon. I had planned to watch them with some other volunteers, but I don't want to spend all of that time out of village. I'll probably make my way with a friend or two up to Glazoue Wednesday, grab a beer, and watch some satellite TV.
Not much more to report. I'm alive and doing fine. Going to be out of contact for a while, I think.
With my grant project I hit a pretty major snag. I'm happy to say my partners and I sat down and came up with a work-around. Having surmounted a major challenge makes me confident
our team can really make this thing work.
Other than that, I've been up in Parakou (a northern city) for a couple of days now. We had our regional Volunteer meeting. We also used the time to kill, butcher, and grill a sheep. It was delicious and a lot of fun.
Elections are coming up soon. I had planned to watch them with some other volunteers, but I don't want to spend all of that time out of village. I'll probably make my way with a friend or two up to Glazoue Wednesday, grab a beer, and watch some satellite TV.
Not much more to report. I'm alive and doing fine. Going to be out of contact for a while, I think.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Wish GRANTED!
Hanging around the bureau here in Cotonou all week had been just okay until today. I've been caught up in the MedUnit trap since Monday. I've been spending the week counting my francs making sure that I had enough money to go home. But today I was cleared to leave tomorrow and I received some great news...
My grant proposal (the one I wrote on Moringa to fight malnutrition), was approved! Well it will be as soon as my work partner signs the agreement form. Whats more is they are going to fast track the money direct into my bank account so that I will have access much faster. This is great news! The people in my community will be so happy.
There is such a great need for a clean and reliable source of protein and vitamins where I live. If things go as planned that need will be filled within the year, in a financially and environmentally sustainable way! I have a lot to start doing when I get home, with school starting, the other projects I have planned and now this, it should be a pretty big year.
My grant proposal (the one I wrote on Moringa to fight malnutrition), was approved! Well it will be as soon as my work partner signs the agreement form. Whats more is they are going to fast track the money direct into my bank account so that I will have access much faster. This is great news! The people in my community will be so happy.
There is such a great need for a clean and reliable source of protein and vitamins where I live. If things go as planned that need will be filled within the year, in a financially and environmentally sustainable way! I have a lot to start doing when I get home, with school starting, the other projects I have planned and now this, it should be a pretty big year.
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Morocco: Imlil and the Hike to Basecamp
We meandered around Marrakesh a little in the morning before getting out of the city. We took a mini buss to a small village named Asni that serves as a transit hub for several mountain settlements in the High Atlas mountains. In Asni we ran into a Czech tour guide that brings groups over land twice a year from the Czech Republic. He was nice enough to offer us a ride to the village we were destined for, so we didn't hesitate. The climb along the mountainsides was amazing. In Imlil Oran, our new friend, hooked us up with a couple of his local colleagues and they got us a great room.
Cafe Soleil was the perfect countryside hotel. The room had a really nice bucolic feel. The floor was covered in layers of Berber carpets in deep reds, black, and cream. The beds in the room were extremely comfortable and we had our own shower. The view from the room was stunning. Set right off of a seasonal riverbed, and facing two mountains the hotel couldn't have been more picturesque. Down below our window a well maintained garden was framed by trees. For dinner the staff cooked us a great chicken tajine. A tajine is a traditional Moroccan dish cooked in a ceramic dish with a cone-shaped lid over coals. They are filled with a mixture of meat and veggies and are smothered with clarified butter. We couldn't believe how good the meal was, it was the perfect thing to get us ready for the next day's hike.
The next morning we took our breakfast in the courtyard looking over the dry rocky riverbed. Moroccan marmalade, bread, butter, orange juice and Nescafe, a nice start to the days walk. The fresh flavors of the marmalade and orange juice really doing justice to Morocco's reputation as a great producer of citrus.
We set off for the days walk winding through a hillside park on our way out of Imlil. Climbing a series of switchbacks led our party to Armoud, a neighboring village on the edge of a rocky graphite-colored valley floor. We made our way across the rocks following the faint trail to a neighboring hillside. On the hill we took our first break. As we ate under an gnarled, hollowed out old apple tree some Moroccan children were skipping and playing down the path. We offered them some figs and peanuts, which they gladly took as they giggled off further down the trail.
Pressing on, I watched as the landscape became more and more radical. We crossed a beautifully constructed aqueduct carved into the hillside. The structure would later symbolize a gate between a landscape influenced by the ingenuity of man and one left to the will of nature. As our progress continued the land fell away to the right to create a deep gash in the Earth's surface. At a waterfall we crossed to an adjacent hillside. There in the crook of the two peaks was a roughly constructed group of shacks occupied by vendors hoping to eek out a living on passing hikers as a “last chance” style of commerce. Thanking them, we climbed into the mountainside to eat our lunch of sausage, pita, Vache Qui Rit (cheese spread), and dates.
After lunch we continued on our way making good time. We had a long day ahead and I wanted to make it to the base camp before dark. Eventually we came upon another vendor selling cold beverages in a very inventive way. He had blocked a natural spring and attached a hose. He led the hose to a water bottle and used it as a sprinkler, wetting down an overhang. The rock would drip over the drinks making them cool and enticing. I was blown away with his ingenuity and wanted to stop and ask some questions; unfortunately we didn't have the time.
Continuing the vegetation was dwindling to mosses, tumbleweeds, and only the toughest shrub-trees. We were traveling in the hot season in Morocco, so much of what we saw was on the extreme end of the seasonal swing. Roots seemed to be minimal as the trees stretched, reached, and twisted as far as they could to catch the sunlight that poured in as the sun skipped between the surrounding mountaintops. We also encountered a crossed several local Moroccans trafficking goods and gear to and from Imlil and the surroundings. They used mules to carry the large loads. Saddled with bright blankets and harnesses the mules slowly persisted under the weight but surefooted, they continued.
Along the way we met several interesting people. A couple of Americans coming back from a small day hike recounted their travels of the last 8 years that had kept them out of the US. They seemed to have come into some money and decided to tour the world on a sailboat. “Our money is running out.” they told us; unashamedly and not disappointed, simply stated as a fact. They were heading back to the US after a couple more stops and going to look for work. We wished them luck and continued on our way. Now several hours and many kilometers into the day's hike, we were feeling rather exhausted. Luckily we soon ran into a pair of vacationing Irish. The couple seemed to be gushing after coming down from the summit that morning. The warm exchange was reassuring and sure enough just around the bend we saw the refuge where we were going to stay the night.
The “hut” or “refuge” was far from what the words conjured up in my imagination. Climbing up to the first we were impressed with the massive scale of the building. Here, more than 30k or rough mountain trails and bad gravel road, people had built some impressive stone structures. The refuge had hot showers, electricity (generator), plumbing, and was detailed in well-crafted wooden trim. We entered got our beds in a bunk-style room, and went down to shower and eat.
Dinner was more of the same sausage, fruit, nuts,etc. We added on a bowl of warm Harissa soup. Harissa is the traditional soup that Moroccans eat to break the fast. It is a thick tomato-vegetable base. Its was a great way to get back some nutrients after a long day of walking. At dinner we met a couple more Czechs, Ales and David. They were planning on climbing, but David had fallen ill. Ales asked if he might join us. We talked a while and got to know each other. Ales had finished a job as a programmer and decided to take a trip to Morocco before settling into another job. David had been living in Ireland for four years or so and was also thinking of changing careers, he was very interested in long-term volunteering so we talked a bit about the challenges and rewards of such work. David and Ales had met over the internet and only really met face-to-face there in Morocco. They made a very interesting pair, Ales being more solemn and serious, where David seemed to laugh at everything. After chatting a while and making our plans to meet in the morning, we repacked our bags for the climb and went off to bed.
Cafe Soleil was the perfect countryside hotel. The room had a really nice bucolic feel. The floor was covered in layers of Berber carpets in deep reds, black, and cream. The beds in the room were extremely comfortable and we had our own shower. The view from the room was stunning. Set right off of a seasonal riverbed, and facing two mountains the hotel couldn't have been more picturesque. Down below our window a well maintained garden was framed by trees. For dinner the staff cooked us a great chicken tajine. A tajine is a traditional Moroccan dish cooked in a ceramic dish with a cone-shaped lid over coals. They are filled with a mixture of meat and veggies and are smothered with clarified butter. We couldn't believe how good the meal was, it was the perfect thing to get us ready for the next day's hike.
The next morning we took our breakfast in the courtyard looking over the dry rocky riverbed. Moroccan marmalade, bread, butter, orange juice and Nescafe, a nice start to the days walk. The fresh flavors of the marmalade and orange juice really doing justice to Morocco's reputation as a great producer of citrus.
We set off for the days walk winding through a hillside park on our way out of Imlil. Climbing a series of switchbacks led our party to Armoud, a neighboring village on the edge of a rocky graphite-colored valley floor. We made our way across the rocks following the faint trail to a neighboring hillside. On the hill we took our first break. As we ate under an gnarled, hollowed out old apple tree some Moroccan children were skipping and playing down the path. We offered them some figs and peanuts, which they gladly took as they giggled off further down the trail.
Pressing on, I watched as the landscape became more and more radical. We crossed a beautifully constructed aqueduct carved into the hillside. The structure would later symbolize a gate between a landscape influenced by the ingenuity of man and one left to the will of nature. As our progress continued the land fell away to the right to create a deep gash in the Earth's surface. At a waterfall we crossed to an adjacent hillside. There in the crook of the two peaks was a roughly constructed group of shacks occupied by vendors hoping to eek out a living on passing hikers as a “last chance” style of commerce. Thanking them, we climbed into the mountainside to eat our lunch of sausage, pita, Vache Qui Rit (cheese spread), and dates.After lunch we continued on our way making good time. We had a long day ahead and I wanted to make it to the base camp before dark. Eventually we came upon another vendor selling cold beverages in a very inventive way. He had blocked a natural spring and attached a hose. He led the hose to a water bottle and used it as a sprinkler, wetting down an overhang. The rock would drip over the drinks making them cool and enticing. I was blown away with his ingenuity and wanted to stop and ask some questions; unfortunately we didn't have the time.
Continuing the vegetation was dwindling to mosses, tumbleweeds, and only the toughest shrub-trees. We were traveling in the hot season in Morocco, so much of what we saw was on the extreme end of the seasonal swing. Roots seemed to be minimal as the trees stretched, reached, and twisted as far as they could to catch the sunlight that poured in as the sun skipped between the surrounding mountaintops. We also encountered a crossed several local Moroccans trafficking goods and gear to and from Imlil and the surroundings. They used mules to carry the large loads. Saddled with bright blankets and harnesses the mules slowly persisted under the weight but surefooted, they continued.
Along the way we met several interesting people. A couple of Americans coming back from a small day hike recounted their travels of the last 8 years that had kept them out of the US. They seemed to have come into some money and decided to tour the world on a sailboat. “Our money is running out.” they told us; unashamedly and not disappointed, simply stated as a fact. They were heading back to the US after a couple more stops and going to look for work. We wished them luck and continued on our way. Now several hours and many kilometers into the day's hike, we were feeling rather exhausted. Luckily we soon ran into a pair of vacationing Irish. The couple seemed to be gushing after coming down from the summit that morning. The warm exchange was reassuring and sure enough just around the bend we saw the refuge where we were going to stay the night.
The “hut” or “refuge” was far from what the words conjured up in my imagination. Climbing up to the first we were impressed with the massive scale of the building. Here, more than 30k or rough mountain trails and bad gravel road, people had built some impressive stone structures. The refuge had hot showers, electricity (generator), plumbing, and was detailed in well-crafted wooden trim. We entered got our beds in a bunk-style room, and went down to shower and eat.
Dinner was more of the same sausage, fruit, nuts,etc. We added on a bowl of warm Harissa soup. Harissa is the traditional soup that Moroccans eat to break the fast. It is a thick tomato-vegetable base. Its was a great way to get back some nutrients after a long day of walking. At dinner we met a couple more Czechs, Ales and David. They were planning on climbing, but David had fallen ill. Ales asked if he might join us. We talked a while and got to know each other. Ales had finished a job as a programmer and decided to take a trip to Morocco before settling into another job. David had been living in Ireland for four years or so and was also thinking of changing careers, he was very interested in long-term volunteering so we talked a bit about the challenges and rewards of such work. David and Ales had met over the internet and only really met face-to-face there in Morocco. They made a very interesting pair, Ales being more solemn and serious, where David seemed to laugh at everything. After chatting a while and making our plans to meet in the morning, we repacked our bags for the climb and went off to bed.
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Down on the Farm
I've been keeping busy 'round the village these days. I'm still waiting for school to start but I'm relatively certain classes will start next Monday. I've planted some sunflowers in front of my house, and I've got some garlic and onion growing pretty well there too. I've also been making small improvements for the coming year and hoping to make my house as nice as possible.
A couple of weeks ago I was invited out to the farm f a friend. Getting up at 7AM I made myself a pot of real coffee, listened to the news, and did a sodoku. According to the BBC the Western world is suffering a major tempest, even football (soccer) teams are watching the horizon so you know it's bad. After cafinating my self and thawing my brain, I gt on my bike and made the 9k jaunt out to a farming settlement northwest of Ouedeme.
Arriving there surprised the locals, most of whom never even make it to the paved road. Children ran around yelling "Yovo, yovo!" as children do. When I made my to my friends' family compound I was warmly greeted and quickly exhausted my minute Fon vocabulary. I came with the desire to do a little work in the fields and learn a little about Beninese farming techniques. My friend, Alban, all of the sudden seemed a little skittish about me doing any sort of manual labor. After I pushed, he said we would, but he wanted to visit his sister first. So we walked through the village, saying hello to everyone.
We sat and spoke with his sister a while, scared some children, made some others laughed. And then we had to eat. Igname pile at 9AM is not the lightest breakfast faire. Luckily, ignames are one of my favorite Beninese foods. So I dug in. After that we walked back to his parent's compound and sat down for... some more igname. This time boiled (think boiled potato) with a chili-oil dipping sauce. It was delicious, but I was full and was scolded for not eating enough.
Large-bellied and full I was sitting under a mango tree surrounded by small children. So naturally I started to entertain them. I pulled out my camera and we had some fun to pass the time. The kids here are such hams, and when they see that they can see themselves on screen they get blown away. Even the most timid children start to perform for the camera. They couldn't get enough.
Eventually, it was time to take a walk and we went to tour the fields. Alban said it was too hot to work that day, and to his credit none of the other men in the settlement seemed to be out, so I gave up on any hope of doing some real work. The family's fields were packed with lush green bushes of soybeans. Its about midway through the season now, the harvest will come in Dec. I'm planning on gorging myself on edemame.
The farming system is pretty interesting. The largest part is, of course, for the father. Everyone has a section for himself or herself. In the mornings the family members all work the father's land and in the afternoons, if all the work is finished, they start in on their own plots. It seemed like everyone had been doing a pretty good job at managing both responsibilities.
Back at the house it was time to start dinner. In my honor they decided to kill a cock. So the father called all the children and told them to go catch it. The kids scattered to hunt down the ill-fated bird, and I chased, camera in hand. There seemed to be much argument about where the chicken had gotten off to. He seemed to have heard them talk about his demise and decided to make a run for it. He was found on the outside of the settlement, and chased back in. He dashed into a dense grove of banana trees and the children were forced to go around. Slashing at the foliage with sticks they kids couldn't seem to find him. As they returned some one yelled they saw it on the other edge of the clearing, and the mini-hunter swarmed in that direction.
They chased it through a fence, knocking down a makeshift structure, and still couldn't seem to catch it. Round and round they went. Eventually I heard a big cheer. I came around the corner and it turns out there was a guy sitting in his house watching the kids and chicken from his couch. So he picked up his slingshot and killed it from where he was sitting.
Papa cut the chicken's neck neck with a pretty dull blade and Mama got started on cooking dinner. The two young boys pounded the igname when they were boiled enough and then it was time to eat. We moved into a dark mud-brick hut for the meal. The sauce consisted of sesame, palm oil sauce served frequently with igname pile.Soon after dinner I had to get back on my bike if I was going to make it before the sun went down. So we said our good byes and I thanked them for a great afternoon. I took a family photo for them because their son is moving away to go to a higher-level school. Making my way home I felt a lot of the stress I had about my return to Benin. These types of days are why I love life here.
Friday, September 26, 2008
Backer Than Ever
I'm back from Morocco and France. It was so great to spend some time with my family in Bretagne. I wish Kelly and Ian could have made it. The food and wine were excellent; I ate till it hurt everyday and soaked up the sun at the beach as often as possible. I had my two and a half weeks of adventure and now it's time to get serious again.
I hit the ground at 3AM Thursday morning and got a hotel room at PC mainstay: Les Hirondelles (a bug infested hoetel we like to call home when we come to Cotonou). Dragging myself out of bed and into the bureau, I learned that my medical review had to be changed because I couldn't stay in the medunit all weekend. No big deal, it was changed to that same day. I gave "samples" and was poked and proded until the doctor was satisfied that I could survive another year. Then I was free to be on my way.
In my email I was informed that my Moringa grant proposal just needed minor tweaking before it could be put up for review next week. Excited, I celebrated by watching some episodes of the Office and eating Ramen.
I go back to post tomorrow. I'm really relieved to go home. School starts in a week or two (maybe) and I'm looking forward to structure in my life again. All of that good French food and Moroccan adventure is really only tolerable for so long, ya know?
Time is a Human Construct
Having just returned from my excursion to Morocco and France, I have come face to face with the fact that I can not possibly post the blow-by-blow of my travels. Yet it is insufficient to simply sweep them under the rug and move forward. So I've struck a deal with the forces of the universe, and from this day forward I will be spontaneously taking the Hillbilly back in time every so often to cover my travels. If you are really impatient my father has posted a couple of entries and photos on our time along the Bretagne coast at Exechobos.
Thank you,
The Managment
Thank you,
The Managment
The Great Escape
I did it! Along with my travel partner and fellow PCV Anna, I took to my heels for two and a half weeks of vacation. We couldn't have had an easier time getting out of Benin. Our flight left before dawn but we had no trouble getting out of bed and through the airport process. The airplane food on Royal Air Moroc was incredible. We hadn't seen anything like it in over a year. The plane was even comfortable. We were off to a good start.
Landing in Casablanca, things went smoothly. I checked no luggage (it's a hereditary obsession) so I skated through customs with the wave of a uniformed hand. Things get better when a train was leaving just as I changed my dollars to Dirhams. Anna and I jumped aboard and were off on the second leg of our journey in a new land.
We took another train for Marrakesh and met some Algerian restaurateurs also vacationing in Morocco. They couldn't have been nicer and it was a really interesting culturral exchange. We looked at photos and were told that we must pay their country a visit some day, perhaps. But for now we simply absorbed the Moroccan country side.
The train floated smoothly amongst the rocky, burnt orange hills. The broad slowly winding rivers were bordered with rugged, weather-beaten trees and spatterings of farmland enclosed with fences of cacti. Soon we found ourselves in Marrakesh.
Arriving in Marrakesh we were charged with energy. The city was beautiful and though our loads were heavy we decided to walk through the Ville Nouvelle. the Ville Nouvelle is comprised of new buildings and developments, grand hotels, malls, an opera house and all the trappings that come with large-scale development. Coming from Benin it was like a walk through a wonderland. I would eventually develop a hunger for something more traditional and historic, but for now I was content to be walking down clean streets and taking in the landscaping. The first thing we did was head straight for the supermarket. The plan was to buy supplies for three days of hiking and set off again immediately for the countryside.
An hour and a half later we decided to scrap the rest of the day's itinerary and spend an extra night in Marrakesh. We found a hotel in a small back alley away from most of the other tourist trap joints and got a room. The hotel was beautiful. Two floors, built in a traditional Moroccan style with rooms opening to a small tiled courtyard in the center. Our room had high ceilings, was beautifully painted and impeccably clean. We had a window to the alleyway decorated with ornate filigree. We couldn't have been happier. We showered, and took off to see the evening scene. The sun was coming down and it was almost time to break the Ramadan fast.
Arriving at the square in the center of the old city we took in the bright lights and chatted with a number of guys who do nothing but try to get passersby to eat at this or that stand. After a while we told one of them we would be back soon and made our first foray into the alleys that make up the market. Too thin to drive a car through, the Moroccans have no problem zipping up and down the thoroughfares on scooters and bicycles. Making things more treacherous are the shops that line either side of the street and the bright colored goods they are stuffed full of. We ran into some friends from Benin and made plans to meet up later. We walked until we couldn't ignore the growing void in our stomachs and we turned back.
At the “snak” (small grill-fry stands serving all kinds of street food) we were treated to the complimentary bowl of zesty Moroccan olives, a pepper sauce, a tomato sauce, and some thick Nan. We dug in as we waited for our waiter to bring us some grilled meats and sauteed eggplant. When he did, we could hardly believe the feast we had ordered. We enjoyed everything so much but eventually reached our limit.
We met back up with our friends from Benin and went out to a local club full of Moroccan kids sitting around drinking coke and smoking. It was a pretty tame scene. We didn't last too long, the trip was long so we went to get some rest.
Saturday, September 6, 2008
Work Hard, Play Hard
It’s been nearly a month now since I've posted last. I've been pretty busy. I've been criss-crossing the country trying to get a grant proposal finished in time for the dead line. The goal of the project is to increase access to Moringa leaf powder so as to help fight malnutrition and improve the health of mothers and their children.
It has been really interesting to organize something like this. I have been pressing my work partner to keep things moving. He has been very busy due to the release of a new album and the cancellation of his vacation from the health center. We have moved the site of the trees 3 times now and had to change many other things about the project. I have learned a lot about aid work and the challenges of working in a developing nation in a capacity other than teaching.
A week ago, I sent my proposal off to USAID where they will scrutinize it and send it back (only once hopefully) so I can change a thing or two. With any luck I should be accepted and receiving money soon after my trip to Morocco and France. We will begin construction on a fence and start getting to work.
I have been around volunteers almost constantly this last month and it’s been more difficult than I thought. I had become so acclimated to being surrounded by Beninese and living my life accordingly. My French has suffered terribly, but the good news is some of my English is coming back to me. I have had some great experiences though.
I have even had a few visitors to my post and we went to the Igname Pile Fete in a near by town (think Gilroy Garlic Festival or your local chili cook-off). We got to Savalou (about 40k from my village) at around 10am on the morning of the 15th. We started to walk around and look for beer and food. To our surprise there wasn’t much going on and Igname Pile proved to be a bit elusive. After a long day and night of celebration the sky opened up and it began pouring. The party was over and it was time to rest.
This past week has brought me back down to Cotonou after only one week at post. I came down for our national Volunteer Action Committee meeting (VAC). VAC is a PC function through which the administration and staff communicate with volunteers via their elected representatives. My peers chose me as the rep from the Zou-Collines department of Benin. So quarterly I will be coming down to Cotonou to meet with staff and discuss issues, policy and concerns of volunteers. I will then be taking that information back to our quarterly meeting. It is an interesting process as many of the different districts have distinct personalities and there seems to be a rift in the points of view held by northern and southern volunteers.
This week was also the swearing-in ceremony/ 40th anniversary celebration of PC Benin. It was a huge to-do held in the Congressional building here in Cotonou. It was strange to see such a massive and well-built building here in Benin. It was fully funded by the Chinese, as many large-scale construction projects are in West Africa. There were many media outlets present, and a lot off top-Beninese brass. Our regional director, country director, some other bigwigs from neighboring countries and a hundred or two volunteers represented PC. It was a great publicity event for PC. It was also very interesting to see new volunteers coming in. As they were taking the oath I couldn’t help but think of the last year of my life and everything I’ve been fortunate to do and learn.
Other than that I am still searching for toothpaste donations from America, which my sister has agreed to help me seek out. If you can help, let me know via email. I think I can fund the shipping through a small grant. Art supplies for my art club are also in great need, so if you could do a drive for them at your job, please let me know!
Last but not least, I’m leaving; getting out of the country, region, and off the continent. Tomorrow morning I ‘m heading out for Morocco. I’ve been planning this excursion for months and it’s finally going to happen. I’m sort of in a state of disbelief. I even feel a little guilty about leaving. It seems absurd when I write it down, but it seems odd that I can just leave like this and all of my friends in village dream of traveling outside of Benin. It is simply difficult to rectify the difference in freedoms based on birthplace. Americans can go where they want when they want with few exceptions. Beninese people (and many other Africans) on the other hand, often deal with extremely corrupt and expensive visa processes, taking visas out of the hands of all but the super-rich. Not to mention that they are limited to small numbers, making traveling a pipedream for most of them.
Still I am excited to see new places and go on new adventures. I’m going to get reacquainted with protein, vegetables, and my dear old friends cheese and butter. I’ve said goodbye to Nescafe; and am secretly looking forward to a passionate relationship with real coffee for the next couple of weeks.
It has been really interesting to organize something like this. I have been pressing my work partner to keep things moving. He has been very busy due to the release of a new album and the cancellation of his vacation from the health center. We have moved the site of the trees 3 times now and had to change many other things about the project. I have learned a lot about aid work and the challenges of working in a developing nation in a capacity other than teaching.
A week ago, I sent my proposal off to USAID where they will scrutinize it and send it back (only once hopefully) so I can change a thing or two. With any luck I should be accepted and receiving money soon after my trip to Morocco and France. We will begin construction on a fence and start getting to work.
I have been around volunteers almost constantly this last month and it’s been more difficult than I thought. I had become so acclimated to being surrounded by Beninese and living my life accordingly. My French has suffered terribly, but the good news is some of my English is coming back to me. I have had some great experiences though.
I have even had a few visitors to my post and we went to the Igname Pile Fete in a near by town (think Gilroy Garlic Festival or your local chili cook-off). We got to Savalou (about 40k from my village) at around 10am on the morning of the 15th. We started to walk around and look for beer and food. To our surprise there wasn’t much going on and Igname Pile proved to be a bit elusive. After a long day and night of celebration the sky opened up and it began pouring. The party was over and it was time to rest.
This past week has brought me back down to Cotonou after only one week at post. I came down for our national Volunteer Action Committee meeting (VAC). VAC is a PC function through which the administration and staff communicate with volunteers via their elected representatives. My peers chose me as the rep from the Zou-Collines department of Benin. So quarterly I will be coming down to Cotonou to meet with staff and discuss issues, policy and concerns of volunteers. I will then be taking that information back to our quarterly meeting. It is an interesting process as many of the different districts have distinct personalities and there seems to be a rift in the points of view held by northern and southern volunteers.
This week was also the swearing-in ceremony/ 40th anniversary celebration of PC Benin. It was a huge to-do held in the Congressional building here in Cotonou. It was strange to see such a massive and well-built building here in Benin. It was fully funded by the Chinese, as many large-scale construction projects are in West Africa. There were many media outlets present, and a lot off top-Beninese brass. Our regional director, country director, some other bigwigs from neighboring countries and a hundred or two volunteers represented PC. It was a great publicity event for PC. It was also very interesting to see new volunteers coming in. As they were taking the oath I couldn’t help but think of the last year of my life and everything I’ve been fortunate to do and learn.
Other than that I am still searching for toothpaste donations from America, which my sister has agreed to help me seek out. If you can help, let me know via email. I think I can fund the shipping through a small grant. Art supplies for my art club are also in great need, so if you could do a drive for them at your job, please let me know!
Last but not least, I’m leaving; getting out of the country, region, and off the continent. Tomorrow morning I ‘m heading out for Morocco. I’ve been planning this excursion for months and it’s finally going to happen. I’m sort of in a state of disbelief. I even feel a little guilty about leaving. It seems absurd when I write it down, but it seems odd that I can just leave like this and all of my friends in village dream of traveling outside of Benin. It is simply difficult to rectify the difference in freedoms based on birthplace. Americans can go where they want when they want with few exceptions. Beninese people (and many other Africans) on the other hand, often deal with extremely corrupt and expensive visa processes, taking visas out of the hands of all but the super-rich. Not to mention that they are limited to small numbers, making traveling a pipedream for most of them.
Still I am excited to see new places and go on new adventures. I’m going to get reacquainted with protein, vegetables, and my dear old friends cheese and butter. I’ve said goodbye to Nescafe; and am secretly looking forward to a passionate relationship with real coffee for the next couple of weeks.
Sunday, August 3, 2008
Villageois Gourmet
Cooking like a Peace Corps Volunteer
It probably doesn't need to be said that not all the same foods are available here in Benin. While globalization is very real and it is true that each month one can find a new “Western” product off one kind or another, day to day life in Benin requires countless changes. One of the areas of greatest areas of adjustment one goes through while living abroad in the developing world. Changing eating habits are unavoidable, but sometimes the lure of familiar dishes is enough inspiration to overcome any challenges.
I thought it might be interesting to post a recipe now and then to share some off my favorite dishes. Since Mexican food is what I miss most, I thought it would be a good starting point. Its vegetarian, but not vegan because of the Maggi (see below), the cube you find there may or may not be.
Fake Meat Tacos
Tortillas: Makes 12 tortillas, or 8 with chip/churos.
ingredients:
2 cu flour
2 Tbs oil
salt (pinch)
½ tsp baking soda
½ cu water
directions:
1.mix dry ingredients
2.fold in water and oil
3.roll dough into balls about the size of a ping-pong ball.
4.let sit covered 20 minutes
5.use a bottle (I like empty wine bottles) as a rolling pin and flatten tortillas as much as possible
6.sprinkle them with a little extra flour to keep them from sticking when stacked
7.fry in a dry frying pan
Refried Black Beans:
ingredients:
beans
salt
onion
garlic
chili peppers
oil
directions:
1.sort out rocks, bugs, bad beans
2.soak beans over night
3.boil till very soft
4.drain off some excess, leaving a bit
5.mash beans
6.heat oil in pan and fry garlic, onion, and peppers
7.add beans and fry and mix to your liking
note: As far as I know can only be found in one marche in all of Benin, but they are grown here.
Salsa:
ingredients:
20 small marche tomatoes
½ tiny limes
3 cloves of imported Chinese garlic
2 Tbs oil
salt
chili peppers
directions:
1.blacken tomatoes in a hot dry pan or over flame
2.submerge tomatoes in a ziplock to cool
3.chop/mince other veggies according to taste
4.juice and add limes
5.salt to taste
6.when cool, chunk tomatoes and mash
7.mix ingredients and return to ziplock and water to keep cool
note: I'm currently growing cilantro which should make my salsa and guac , and thus my life, 3 or 4X better.
Fake Chicken:
ingredients:
soy mince
onion
green bell pepper
garlic
Maggi cube (its a little like bullion cube, we can buy chicken or shrimp in Benin)
Oil
taco seasoning (not found in country, time to call in a favor)
directions:
1.boil soy mince until thoroughly tender
2.strain and press as much water out as possible
3.mince the onion and garlic
4.mix a little water and cube
5.heat oil, fry the onion and garlic
6.add bell pepper, soy and mixture of cube and water
7.mix in taco seasoning
8.fry until water is evaporated and soy begins to brown like ground meat
notes: Soy mince is a little like Textured Vegetable Protien but I've never seen it in the states, its dried bits a touch more dense then tofu. This can't be found in village, so I have to buy this in bulk in the cities when I travel.
I've got the bad luck of having no meat for sale in my village, and no refrigeration, so I use soy/Maggi combinations quite a bit. The longer I'm here the more this really starts to taste like chicken, sad I know. I may buy a few chickens of my own this year and try to raise my own if I have time.
Chips/Churros:
ingredients:
tortilla batter
oil
salt
cinnamon/sugar
directions:
1.roll out and cut up dough into triangles
2.heat oil in pan
3.for churros: dip in cinnamon and sugar then roll into tubes
4.fry until crisp
5.for chips: right after frying, toss in salt
THATS IT!
Get your salsa out of the bag and slice up some cabbage really thin and you're ready to go.
Everything here takes me a few hours or so, not a bad way to spend an afternoon.
It probably doesn't need to be said that not all the same foods are available here in Benin. While globalization is very real and it is true that each month one can find a new “Western” product off one kind or another, day to day life in Benin requires countless changes. One of the areas of greatest areas of adjustment one goes through while living abroad in the developing world. Changing eating habits are unavoidable, but sometimes the lure of familiar dishes is enough inspiration to overcome any challenges.
I thought it might be interesting to post a recipe now and then to share some off my favorite dishes. Since Mexican food is what I miss most, I thought it would be a good starting point. Its vegetarian, but not vegan because of the Maggi (see below), the cube you find there may or may not be.
Fake Meat Tacos
Tortillas: Makes 12 tortillas, or 8 with chip/churos.
ingredients:
2 cu flour
2 Tbs oil
salt (pinch)
½ tsp baking soda
½ cu water
directions:
1.mix dry ingredients
2.fold in water and oil
3.roll dough into balls about the size of a ping-pong ball.
4.let sit covered 20 minutes
5.use a bottle (I like empty wine bottles) as a rolling pin and flatten tortillas as much as possible
6.sprinkle them with a little extra flour to keep them from sticking when stacked
7.fry in a dry frying pan
Refried Black Beans:
ingredients:
beans
salt
onion
garlic
chili peppers
oil
directions:
1.sort out rocks, bugs, bad beans
2.soak beans over night
3.boil till very soft
4.drain off some excess, leaving a bit
5.mash beans
6.heat oil in pan and fry garlic, onion, and peppers
7.add beans and fry and mix to your liking
note: As far as I know can only be found in one marche in all of Benin, but they are grown here.
Salsa:
ingredients:
20 small marche tomatoes
½ tiny limes
3 cloves of imported Chinese garlic
2 Tbs oil
salt
chili peppers
directions:
1.blacken tomatoes in a hot dry pan or over flame
2.submerge tomatoes in a ziplock to cool
3.chop/mince other veggies according to taste
4.juice and add limes
5.salt to taste
6.when cool, chunk tomatoes and mash
7.mix ingredients and return to ziplock and water to keep cool
note: I'm currently growing cilantro which should make my salsa and guac , and thus my life, 3 or 4X better.
Fake Chicken:
ingredients:
soy mince
onion
green bell pepper
garlic
Maggi cube (its a little like bullion cube, we can buy chicken or shrimp in Benin)
Oil
taco seasoning (not found in country, time to call in a favor)
directions:
1.boil soy mince until thoroughly tender
2.strain and press as much water out as possible
3.mince the onion and garlic
4.mix a little water and cube
5.heat oil, fry the onion and garlic
6.add bell pepper, soy and mixture of cube and water
7.mix in taco seasoning
8.fry until water is evaporated and soy begins to brown like ground meat
notes: Soy mince is a little like Textured Vegetable Protien but I've never seen it in the states, its dried bits a touch more dense then tofu. This can't be found in village, so I have to buy this in bulk in the cities when I travel.
I've got the bad luck of having no meat for sale in my village, and no refrigeration, so I use soy/Maggi combinations quite a bit. The longer I'm here the more this really starts to taste like chicken, sad I know. I may buy a few chickens of my own this year and try to raise my own if I have time.
Chips/Churros:
ingredients:
tortilla batter
oil
salt
cinnamon/sugar
directions:
1.roll out and cut up dough into triangles
2.heat oil in pan
3.for churros: dip in cinnamon and sugar then roll into tubes
4.fry until crisp
5.for chips: right after frying, toss in salt
THATS IT!
Get your salsa out of the bag and slice up some cabbage really thin and you're ready to go.
Everything here takes me a few hours or so, not a bad way to spend an afternoon.
One Year Deep
I realized many of my entries thus far have said little of my work. Well the school year is over, the grades have been calculated for more than a month now, and I have had a chance to relax. A couple of weeks a go I got to thinking about the little time I have left here in Benin and what I wanted to accomplish before setting out on a new course. While it doesn't always feel like it, two years pass far too quickly. In the coming year I have 4 projects I hope to complete other than teaching:
1: Art Club
Art in Benin is something largely left to the professionals. The Beninese are not given many opportunities to manifest their world view through artistic expression. Children simply do not have access to supplemental resources, but when given the opportunity they jump at it. So in the coming school year I am hoping to put together a group that meets a couple of times each month to create little projects. Resources are scarce in village but I am hoping to use largely found objects and cheap supplies so that they can continue once I'm gone. I would also like to give the students the opportunity to work with some media that they haven't encountered before. I am looking to get tempera paints black construction paper, and anything else I can sent over from the states for a few projects I have in mind. If you have any interest in supporting this project, I could really use the help.
2: Toothbrushing Club
Most children here come from very poor families who have difficulty covering school fees each year, so dental hygiene is not a high priority. It is rare to see an elder person with all of their teeth, and often those they do have a have been ravaged by cavities and tooth decay. In an effort to instill good habits in some kids I have devised a program that will teach children the importance of good dental care.
Traditionally, Beninese people chew small pieces of wood every morning to clean their teeth, this is a practice pattern that continues to this day. When there is a tooth problem children and adults alike are given a strong alcohol infused with roots as a traditional cure. Due to these practices, dental problems are nearly guaranteed to the young people off my village. Behavioral change is the most difficult part of development/aid work, by starting young I am hoping to instill the importance and acceptance of dental hygiene at an early age so these children will avoid some of the pitfalls of their parents.
In the coming school year I am hoping to organize a dental hygiene club with some of the students at the school. To help share the responsibility for their own dental health, I am requiring that the students themselves purchase the tooth brushes which can be found in our market for about $0.25. The project will supply the students with toothpaste every morning, five days a week for one school year. Each morning we will brush together before class. The students will also be taught the signs of tooth decay and what to do in the case of a cavity or other malady. This will also help to ensure the students arrive on time to class every morning.
To supply the toothpaste I am hoping to find donors in America to materialize 200 tubes of toothpaste for 300 kids, that should cover the entire school year. If you know anyone with connections that could help, I would really appreciate a hand.
3: An Introductory Computer Classification
I have arranged cheap access to the computers at a local cyber for a group of 10 teachers and professionals. I will give rudimentary computer literacy lessons for 4 days in things such as typing and mouse use. Hopefully this will become a monthly get together. These skills are becoming increasingly important in Benin, especially for teachers who have little resources to work with in the classroom. I'll write updates on how things go.
4: Moringa Powder
What is the largest and most serious of my new projects is a field I am planting with an NGO in my village to plant an orchard of trees known as Moringa Oleifera. Malnutrition is a huge problem in Benin, specifically for mothers and young children. Malnutrition, and low birthweight lead to numerous health problems, diseases, and exacerbate the effects of diseases like malaria all over Africa. It also contributes to a staggering rate of infant mortality (13% here in Benin).
What we are hoping to do is manufacture a powder from the dried leaves of the tree which we will sell to local health centers. We will also give information sessions on the dangers of malnutrition and how to avoid it through cooking with Moringa.
I am currently writing a grant proposal to fund our project. We have started with 50 plants and they are doing extremely well. If everything goes well we should have 800 trees planted soon and a fence built to protect them. One of my favorite parts of this project is that it is economically and environmentally sustainable. The trees are excellent for inter-cropping and the profits from the sale will ensure that the NGO doesn't have to come looking for aid money every year.
I'm hoping I can get all of these organized before the school year starts so that I'm not scrambling once things heat up. If you can help with the toothpaste or the art supplies, just write me a quick note.
1: Art Club
Art in Benin is something largely left to the professionals. The Beninese are not given many opportunities to manifest their world view through artistic expression. Children simply do not have access to supplemental resources, but when given the opportunity they jump at it. So in the coming school year I am hoping to put together a group that meets a couple of times each month to create little projects. Resources are scarce in village but I am hoping to use largely found objects and cheap supplies so that they can continue once I'm gone. I would also like to give the students the opportunity to work with some media that they haven't encountered before. I am looking to get tempera paints black construction paper, and anything else I can sent over from the states for a few projects I have in mind. If you have any interest in supporting this project, I could really use the help.
2: Toothbrushing Club
Most children here come from very poor families who have difficulty covering school fees each year, so dental hygiene is not a high priority. It is rare to see an elder person with all of their teeth, and often those they do have a have been ravaged by cavities and tooth decay. In an effort to instill good habits in some kids I have devised a program that will teach children the importance of good dental care.
Traditionally, Beninese people chew small pieces of wood every morning to clean their teeth, this is a practice pattern that continues to this day. When there is a tooth problem children and adults alike are given a strong alcohol infused with roots as a traditional cure. Due to these practices, dental problems are nearly guaranteed to the young people off my village. Behavioral change is the most difficult part of development/aid work, by starting young I am hoping to instill the importance and acceptance of dental hygiene at an early age so these children will avoid some of the pitfalls of their parents.
In the coming school year I am hoping to organize a dental hygiene club with some of the students at the school. To help share the responsibility for their own dental health, I am requiring that the students themselves purchase the tooth brushes which can be found in our market for about $0.25. The project will supply the students with toothpaste every morning, five days a week for one school year. Each morning we will brush together before class. The students will also be taught the signs of tooth decay and what to do in the case of a cavity or other malady. This will also help to ensure the students arrive on time to class every morning.
To supply the toothpaste I am hoping to find donors in America to materialize 200 tubes of toothpaste for 300 kids, that should cover the entire school year. If you know anyone with connections that could help, I would really appreciate a hand.
3: An Introductory Computer Classification
I have arranged cheap access to the computers at a local cyber for a group of 10 teachers and professionals. I will give rudimentary computer literacy lessons for 4 days in things such as typing and mouse use. Hopefully this will become a monthly get together. These skills are becoming increasingly important in Benin, especially for teachers who have little resources to work with in the classroom. I'll write updates on how things go.
4: Moringa Powder
What is the largest and most serious of my new projects is a field I am planting with an NGO in my village to plant an orchard of trees known as Moringa Oleifera. Malnutrition is a huge problem in Benin, specifically for mothers and young children. Malnutrition, and low birthweight lead to numerous health problems, diseases, and exacerbate the effects of diseases like malaria all over Africa. It also contributes to a staggering rate of infant mortality (13% here in Benin).
What we are hoping to do is manufacture a powder from the dried leaves of the tree which we will sell to local health centers. We will also give information sessions on the dangers of malnutrition and how to avoid it through cooking with Moringa.
I am currently writing a grant proposal to fund our project. We have started with 50 plants and they are doing extremely well. If everything goes well we should have 800 trees planted soon and a fence built to protect them. One of my favorite parts of this project is that it is economically and environmentally sustainable. The trees are excellent for inter-cropping and the profits from the sale will ensure that the NGO doesn't have to come looking for aid money every year.
I'm hoping I can get all of these organized before the school year starts so that I'm not scrambling once things heat up. If you can help with the toothpaste or the art supplies, just write me a quick note.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
"DVD Guy"
Disclaimer:
I know if I keep this type of writing up it will spoil people's image of what Peace Corps service is really like, but its been that kind of month.
In Cotonou there is a middle aged, “rough around the edges” guy that might be a little scary in a dark alley if it weren't for his huge grin and accommodating nature. He is know by volunteers as “DVD Guy.” He is in fact our mainline into the junk that is popular culture and entertainment during our two years in Benin. I know, you don't have to tell me, I thought people left the US to get away from all of that dirty consumerism and disgusting mind-numbing Hollywood drivel. When you catch some intestinal parasites, get a staph infection, or develop some mysterious rash that looks like a deity; we'll see how you cope.
For us, DVD Guy keeps us sane. He is there and happy to see us. He can spot us coming half a kilometer away and even if he's just closing up shop he'll open those boxes back up and even get you a stool to sit on while you rifle through them. He will never complain or become impatient, no matter how long you sit and look.
He's got it all. You want nature shows? How about a disk of 80 assorted episodes of various documentaries. What about the third season of Desperate Housewives? No problem. Oh and what if you meet some sad individual who has never seen an Indian Jones, Star Wars, or Lord of the Rings movie? Well you can have them all on one disk, if you don't mind taking some Harry Potter. The best part? You can make requests, he will activate his vast piracy network to find you that 2nd season of some show that you missed. And its all fresh. Yesterday I saw the new Indian Jones movie, Speed Racer, and some other things I had never heard of because I'm so villagois.
It gets even better when you decide to buy. There is no 30 minutes of discutéing. The price is set. Its 2,000fCFA ($4.18USD) per disk no matter what. The disks themselves are sent over from Nigeria, or sometimes China and they come in cellophane-wrapped cardboard sleeves that mimic the DVD covers themselves. Some disks are better quality than others but when faced with no alternative they're heaven.
I know if I keep this type of writing up it will spoil people's image of what Peace Corps service is really like, but its been that kind of month.
In Cotonou there is a middle aged, “rough around the edges” guy that might be a little scary in a dark alley if it weren't for his huge grin and accommodating nature. He is know by volunteers as “DVD Guy.” He is in fact our mainline into the junk that is popular culture and entertainment during our two years in Benin. I know, you don't have to tell me, I thought people left the US to get away from all of that dirty consumerism and disgusting mind-numbing Hollywood drivel. When you catch some intestinal parasites, get a staph infection, or develop some mysterious rash that looks like a deity; we'll see how you cope.
For us, DVD Guy keeps us sane. He is there and happy to see us. He can spot us coming half a kilometer away and even if he's just closing up shop he'll open those boxes back up and even get you a stool to sit on while you rifle through them. He will never complain or become impatient, no matter how long you sit and look.
He's got it all. You want nature shows? How about a disk of 80 assorted episodes of various documentaries. What about the third season of Desperate Housewives? No problem. Oh and what if you meet some sad individual who has never seen an Indian Jones, Star Wars, or Lord of the Rings movie? Well you can have them all on one disk, if you don't mind taking some Harry Potter. The best part? You can make requests, he will activate his vast piracy network to find you that 2nd season of some show that you missed. And its all fresh. Yesterday I saw the new Indian Jones movie, Speed Racer, and some other things I had never heard of because I'm so villagois.
It gets even better when you decide to buy. There is no 30 minutes of discutéing. The price is set. Its 2,000fCFA ($4.18USD) per disk no matter what. The disks themselves are sent over from Nigeria, or sometimes China and they come in cellophane-wrapped cardboard sleeves that mimic the DVD covers themselves. Some disks are better quality than others but when faced with no alternative they're heaven.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Pork Fest Day 3: Thursday
On the third day we all rolled out of bed admiring one another's bulging pot bellies. Brunch was on the menu. That meant breakfast sausage, igname latkes, home made apple sauce, pit roast part 2: the return of the feast, more biscuits, and scrambled eggs. Not surprisingly we all seemed to be moving at a quarter speed in the early hours. We didn't get around to eating until nearly 1:30.
After that many of us lumbered off to grab a cab to Cotonou so they could be there on the 4th to meet the new volunteers that were on their way. So those sad few of us who were left cleaned the mess and got the house into some semblance of order. Then it was time to get ready for dinner (leftovers) and relax.
Pork Fest was clearly a huge success. It took a lot of cooperation, and good humor to make things move so smoothly and we couldn't have asked for a better group. Gourmandizing isn't in the Peace Corps handbook but it certainly seems to fit. I guess its a binge and purge life here in Benin, and as long as ribs are involved, I'm in.
Friday, July 4, 2008
Pork Fest Day 2: Wednesday
In the morning I was on scrambled eggs. We ate 36 eggs in all. In addition we fried up breakfast sausage we had ground up and seasoned the night before. Emily, another PCV baked some biscuits and made a gravy using some of the pork fat from the night before.
Breakfast took so long there wasn't much time to waist. As people were cleaning another team started cleaning intestines to make brats for lunch. Then there was the stuffing under the mosquito net to keep the flies off. We were well on our way to another day of over whelming pork consumption. Along with the bratwurst we had German potato salad (made without mayo sub pork fat) and a green salad and sauerkraut.
Eventually I got my hands on the finished brats. Threw them on to boil, then on the grill. They came out a little dry (thanks again no doubt to them being made from Beninese pork). But were delicious all the same. We didn't get lunch until mid afternoon, but that worked out well because the pig on the roast was putting up a bit of post-mortem struggle.
To tide us over we started to work on the pork rinds or “cracklins.” We had a huge basin of pork skin we had trimmed of the day before. A bit of salt and taco seasoning is all it took. It took a little experimenting, but we eventually got them right. Next time we will bake them before we boil them though.
As soon as the breakfast cleanup was finished we sent a delegation to retrieve our second pig. A pit was dug. Rebar, tin roofing, and chicken wire were bought and bartered for (with pig meat). And we were on our way to protein overload. By noon the second day we were a well oiled machine of cooking, eating, drinking, and doing our best to keep it clean.
When the 2nd pig arrived we encountered a whole new slew of questions. How does one pit roast a pig? How does one keep all the tasy bits from dribbling off? Well the answers were simple but not for the squeamish. We took two pieces of rebar, jammed them through the neck all of the way to the rear of the pig. Sliced the skin so it would crisp up really nicely. We then wrapped it like a carnitas burrito in chicken wire and finally, cut small holes through the ribcage and wove the third piece of rebar through.
There was a minor fire issue but that was quickly and easily regulated. After that we had a crack team of professionals watching (and drinking) near the pit at all times. Because the pig was to stay in the pit for 6 hours we started a second pit just for fresh coals. It went off with out a hitch. That evening we ate Pit roasted pig, more green salad, baked beans,and 3 types of pie: key lime, silk chocolate, and apple(all made with rendered pork lard).
After dinner the food comas set in and we crowded around the television for movies, around the computer screens, or under the mango tree for a bit of trivial pursuit. We all found our way to bed early after two long days of gluttony and the hard work that accompanies it.
Blog Note:
I have added an RSS option toward the bottom in the left hand column.
Breakfast took so long there wasn't much time to waist. As people were cleaning another team started cleaning intestines to make brats for lunch. Then there was the stuffing under the mosquito net to keep the flies off. We were well on our way to another day of over whelming pork consumption. Along with the bratwurst we had German potato salad (made without mayo sub pork fat) and a green salad and sauerkraut.
Eventually I got my hands on the finished brats. Threw them on to boil, then on the grill. They came out a little dry (thanks again no doubt to them being made from Beninese pork). But were delicious all the same. We didn't get lunch until mid afternoon, but that worked out well because the pig on the roast was putting up a bit of post-mortem struggle.
To tide us over we started to work on the pork rinds or “cracklins.” We had a huge basin of pork skin we had trimmed of the day before. A bit of salt and taco seasoning is all it took. It took a little experimenting, but we eventually got them right. Next time we will bake them before we boil them though.
As soon as the breakfast cleanup was finished we sent a delegation to retrieve our second pig. A pit was dug. Rebar, tin roofing, and chicken wire were bought and bartered for (with pig meat). And we were on our way to protein overload. By noon the second day we were a well oiled machine of cooking, eating, drinking, and doing our best to keep it clean.
When the 2nd pig arrived we encountered a whole new slew of questions. How does one pit roast a pig? How does one keep all the tasy bits from dribbling off? Well the answers were simple but not for the squeamish. We took two pieces of rebar, jammed them through the neck all of the way to the rear of the pig. Sliced the skin so it would crisp up really nicely. We then wrapped it like a carnitas burrito in chicken wire and finally, cut small holes through the ribcage and wove the third piece of rebar through.
There was a minor fire issue but that was quickly and easily regulated. After that we had a crack team of professionals watching (and drinking) near the pit at all times. Because the pig was to stay in the pit for 6 hours we started a second pit just for fresh coals. It went off with out a hitch. That evening we ate Pit roasted pig, more green salad, baked beans,and 3 types of pie: key lime, silk chocolate, and apple(all made with rendered pork lard).
After dinner the food comas set in and we crowded around the television for movies, around the computer screens, or under the mango tree for a bit of trivial pursuit. We all found our way to bed early after two long days of gluttony and the hard work that accompanies it.
Blog Note:
I have added an RSS option toward the bottom in the left hand column.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Pork Fest Day 1: Tuesday
People trickled into the Parakou workstation starting Monday night and continued this morning. By the time the first pig arrived we numbered 16. The first pig cost us 50,000f CFA (about 120 USD). She was a massive beauty. She arrived carried over the shoulders of another PCV who rode up to the house on the back of a zem.We setup a table where three other volunteers and myself went to work butchering our first pig. It took more than 2 hours of hacking away at our future feast using a machete and low-quality Beninese cutlery to transform the animal into something manageable. About half way through the beer was from the distributor. We ordered 12 cases for the three days and managed to get a discount. Cooking this much pig is thirsty work. Pork bits started flying everywhere and pretty soon we had ourselves a whole lot of meat.
As soon as I could I got the ribs into a pot of boiling water. I know boiling ribs is sacrilege, but we aren't dealing with a plump American corn fed pig so sacrifices must be made. I made a rub from brown sugar, fennel seed, paprika, chili powder, garlic powder, and a couple other things I found around the kitchen. After that they went into the oven. A bit into the cooking time I checked on them and and saw that the oven was far too hot. I was misinformed about the calibration of the oven and there is no thermometer in the house. In the end they turned out pretty good, everyone seemed to love them. The ribs were supplemented with grilled pork tenderloin and cornbread and coleslaw for sides. Dinner was outstanding. I ate until I didn't think I could possibly eat anymore, then I had seconds. Eating food like this after being in Benin for nearly a year was one of the most physically gratifying things that I've ever experienced. Food is an important part of life, that is nothing new, but doing something like this has given me new appreciation of how much impact a single meal can have on one's mentality.
We had a visitor up from Cotonou. He is a student studying microfinance at Wake Forest. He heard about our pork project and couldn't pass it up. He had never visited the north before so we took him out to try chuke for the first time. Chuke is a local brew made from millet and yeast served in dried gourds. If well made the taste comes off a bit like cider, if not it has a vinegar tinge to it. The yeast is actually left in the mix so it continues to ferment as it sits in the gourd (and yuour stomach). Mostly it is bought and sold in markets, but it can also be found in shacks along the roadside. Its a PCV beverage of choice because the markets are full of interesting people and the price is right (50f CFA or $0.12 USD).
Entering into your first chuke stand is an interesting experience. Its dark, dank, and humid. The tin roofs keep the heat trapped in. Lining the walls are low set benches often crowded with Beninese men taking a break or getting out of the house. The stands smell of old chuke, sweat, and dust. The service is generally younger women who seek a meager living selling the swill at a profit margin that would make an American entrepreneur weep.
Fat and happy we spent the rest of the evening listening to music, sharing stories, and enjoying one another's company. Some people played beerpong and others started prepping for breakfast. Its nice to have some time to relax and cut loose after all the work of the past few weeks. Many of the PCVs that came the year before I did are getting ready to finish up their service and its good to see them one last time.
Monday, June 30, 2008
Camp Glow
I'm back in good health. After that small battle with malaria(?)or bacterial infection I've been back on my feet since Friday. Camp GLOW (Girls Leading Our World) was a great success. The girls all seemed very changed by the end of the week. It was really inspiring to see them become more outgoing and confident. They had toured a radio/ television station, visited a university, heard talks from professional women, health workers, environmental workers, done crafts, played sports and many other great activities.
I was so proud of how well my girls from Ouedeme behaved. In fact one was so impressive that out of the 50+ girls in attendance she was awarded a "spirit stick" because she was always so involved, on time, outspoken, and well-behaved. She is one of my best students and I'm glad I was able to help her have such a unique experience.
Saturday was my day to spend all day and night at the center. Another volunteer and I were in charge of girl-wrangling and running the various activities. There was a recap sessions about their goals and motivations. We discussed what they wanted to do and how they were better equipped to achieve their aims after the week's sessions. It went pretty well.
Next was a closing ceremony where we invited many of the participating ONGs and contributers from the community to come meet with the girls and see a slide show presentation I put together of everyone's photos throughout the week.
The afternoon was a great session. We had four hours of crafts. There were friendship bracelets, crocheting, making little pouches from FanMilk bags, and I manned the tie-dye station. Each girl made a head wrap and dyed it.
Saturday night we had a candle ceremony then a dance party. After that it was lights out. Upon returning to our room I noticed my wallet was left open sitting on the bed. I know I hadn't spent any money all day so it struck. Anxious, I opened it only to find my money missing. The door had been locked all day and was locked when we came back to the room. Also missing from the room was another volunteer's brand new digital camera. I spoke to the security guard who explained that it was not possible for the camera and my money to have been stolen as there is only one person with a key. Frustrated we went to visit the person who keeps the keys only to find him not answering the door. Cleaned out, my biggest concern was that I now had no money to get my girls home the next day. There was nothing that could be done so I went to bed.
The next morning I spoke with the volunteer who organized the camp and she managed to squeeze a little money out of the remainder of the budget to get my girls back to village. It was nice to finally have some downtime so another PCV and I rearranged some of the furniture in the workstation. I'm looking forward to this week as my first true week of vacation.
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Why?
Because email is hard.
After nearly one year here in Benin I find myself giving into the blog. After sending 17+ dispatch emails I have grown tired of the unreliable and cumbersome nature of mass mailing. In an effort to put an end to these problems, I have created this space to post to directly. I hope you will check in often, even if there is a lull in posts from time to time. After all, internet access is never guaranteed here in Benin. You can also subscribe if you still want it to come to you.
After nearly one year here in Benin I find myself giving into the blog. After sending 17+ dispatch emails I have grown tired of the unreliable and cumbersome nature of mass mailing. In an effort to put an end to these problems, I have created this space to post to directly. I hope you will check in often, even if there is a lull in posts from time to time. After all, internet access is never guaranteed here in Benin. You can also subscribe if you still want it to come to you.
Paluuuuuu!
I'm up north in Parakou for a girl's empowerment camp, called Camp GLOW, this week. Thirteen volunteers brought between 2 and 4 girls to the city for a week of sessions and outings. Most of the girls are between 10 and 13 years old. Many have never left their little villages and have no idea what life is like after 3e (similar to 8th grade in the US). At GLOW, they go to the university, a radio and television station, listen to talks, watch films, eat really well, and meet other girls from all over the country.
We came up on Sunday, got the girls settled in and did some ice-breaking activities. The next day there were several sessions including some really interesting talks from some independent professional women.
On Tuesday we took a short trip to an agricultural center about 15k outside of Parakou. A couple other volunteers and I made the trip by bicycle just to get some exercise. I noticed I was getting a bit of a headache, I thought it was just from the sun (although the sky had been threatening rain all morning). I paid no mind and made the ride home.
Back at the workstation I started to feel a bit ill and really tired. Within an hour I had massive headache, I thought it was a migraine. So I laid down and watched some TV on my laptop. An hour later I had the chills, and my head seemed to be splitting open. I checked my temperature a round 9pm and it was at 102.4. I knew I had malaria, the palu. Through the night things kept getting worse but I slept as well as I could waiting for the sun to come.
In the morning I woke up feeling a bit better. This is normal for malaria, as it usually bursts the blood cells at night and the symptoms intensify. I spent the day resting and made a call to the doctors. They told me to wait to see if thing got worse in the evening. If so, I was to do a blood test and call the doctor back. They would send a local doctor to the house to run the test and give me medicine.
I spent the day waiting but it never got too bad. My fever stayed marginal and I just felt a little weak. I made it through another night and today I feel pretty good. If I do well tonight I should be fine. I'm looking forward to beating this little bout with the Palu, and chalking it up to another trial of my time here in Benin and getting back to the camp.
The down time how I finally got to put this blog together.
We came up on Sunday, got the girls settled in and did some ice-breaking activities. The next day there were several sessions including some really interesting talks from some independent professional women.
On Tuesday we took a short trip to an agricultural center about 15k outside of Parakou. A couple other volunteers and I made the trip by bicycle just to get some exercise. I noticed I was getting a bit of a headache, I thought it was just from the sun (although the sky had been threatening rain all morning). I paid no mind and made the ride home.
Back at the workstation I started to feel a bit ill and really tired. Within an hour I had massive headache, I thought it was a migraine. So I laid down and watched some TV on my laptop. An hour later I had the chills, and my head seemed to be splitting open. I checked my temperature a round 9pm and it was at 102.4. I knew I had malaria, the palu. Through the night things kept getting worse but I slept as well as I could waiting for the sun to come.
In the morning I woke up feeling a bit better. This is normal for malaria, as it usually bursts the blood cells at night and the symptoms intensify. I spent the day resting and made a call to the doctors. They told me to wait to see if thing got worse in the evening. If so, I was to do a blood test and call the doctor back. They would send a local doctor to the house to run the test and give me medicine.
I spent the day waiting but it never got too bad. My fever stayed marginal and I just felt a little weak. I made it through another night and today I feel pretty good. If I do well tonight I should be fine. I'm looking forward to beating this little bout with the Palu, and chalking it up to another trial of my time here in Benin and getting back to the camp.
The down time how I finally got to put this blog together.
Pomp and Passing in Glazoue
For those haven't received my previous email dispatches, Glazoue is a town situated on the goudron (asphalt road) about 12k from my village. Glazoue is also the head of my “commune” (county). The mayor had died a month earlier of a heart attack. There had been wide-spread rumors attributing his death to Gris-Gris (evil voodoo). There were even some civil uprisings and minor conflicts between the two ethnic groups there. The conflict was, when compared to events such as Kenya's last presidential election in January, very minor. Some businesses were looted, and threats were made. One of my favorite shop owners was imprisoned for making threats after his shop was decimated by rioters. Eventually the military was called in to quell the strife.
A month later I, with another PC volunteer and the two local Japanese volunteers attended the burial ceremony in Sowe, a village near my own. Upon arriving at 7:30AM we were greeted by a crowd of family, friends, and hangers-on. The number of the crowd would eventually grow to thousands. We walked around and I visited with a couple of people I know from the village. Everyone seemed very impressed that we were dressed appropriately.
My guest and I were dressed outfits made in one of the several designated tissus (clothes). Wearing the same cloth is a huge cultural custom here in Benin that people invoke for any number of occasions. This particular ceremony was interesting because of the sheer number of different tissus and their according significance, direct relations wore one tissue, indirect another, political and social ties had their own as well. The outfits were amazing, everyone was dressed to the 9's, knowing that nearly every politically influential personality would be in attendance. I hadn't seen so many luxury cars gathered together since arriving in Benin. Soon it was time to eat a little something before the ceremony began.
In Benin it is custom that the women of the family spend the entire night before a burial preparing food for the attendants of the proceedings. In the case of the mayor, two cows were killed and cooked. In addition to mountains of riz-gras (fat rice) which, as one might imagine from the translation, is just rice cooked with tons of fat. Just the thing to wake you right up for a 5 hour Catholic ceremony spoken in a combination of foreign languages.
Soon thereafter we were seated under massive tents that would make any circus proud. The ceremony was soon under way, speakers were punctuated with musical numbers from one or more of the 6+ choirs in attendance. The ceremony seemed to outlast not only our short Western attention spans but those of the Beninese as well. Soon there were calls from the MCs to limit this or that part of the ceremony. Eventually, after gift giving, dancing, singing, ad nauseum we made our way home to spend the afternoon showing the Jica (Japanese version of Peace Corps) around my village and eating make-shift Mexican.
A month later I, with another PC volunteer and the two local Japanese volunteers attended the burial ceremony in Sowe, a village near my own. Upon arriving at 7:30AM we were greeted by a crowd of family, friends, and hangers-on. The number of the crowd would eventually grow to thousands. We walked around and I visited with a couple of people I know from the village. Everyone seemed very impressed that we were dressed appropriately.
My guest and I were dressed outfits made in one of the several designated tissus (clothes). Wearing the same cloth is a huge cultural custom here in Benin that people invoke for any number of occasions. This particular ceremony was interesting because of the sheer number of different tissus and their according significance, direct relations wore one tissue, indirect another, political and social ties had their own as well. The outfits were amazing, everyone was dressed to the 9's, knowing that nearly every politically influential personality would be in attendance. I hadn't seen so many luxury cars gathered together since arriving in Benin. Soon it was time to eat a little something before the ceremony began.
In Benin it is custom that the women of the family spend the entire night before a burial preparing food for the attendants of the proceedings. In the case of the mayor, two cows were killed and cooked. In addition to mountains of riz-gras (fat rice) which, as one might imagine from the translation, is just rice cooked with tons of fat. Just the thing to wake you right up for a 5 hour Catholic ceremony spoken in a combination of foreign languages.
Soon thereafter we were seated under massive tents that would make any circus proud. The ceremony was soon under way, speakers were punctuated with musical numbers from one or more of the 6+ choirs in attendance. The ceremony seemed to outlast not only our short Western attention spans but those of the Beninese as well. Soon there were calls from the MCs to limit this or that part of the ceremony. Eventually, after gift giving, dancing, singing, ad nauseum we made our way home to spend the afternoon showing the Jica (Japanese version of Peace Corps) around my village and eating make-shift Mexican.
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